A Great Adventure

At two-thirty on the afternoon of the eighth day of August, two thousand and four, I struggled my way into a large building and, for some time, wandered around, very confused. Following cryptic signs I was able to become slightly more oriented and finally was relieved of a great physical burden.
Then the signs directed me to a place where I joined a large crowd of people, none of whom appeared to be at all confused. Just me, I thought.
Nothing seemed to be happening, so I wandered off and found an appropriate place where I ordered the most expensive Cuervo Gold and OJ of my life. Then I went back and after a while, they all started getting into a very long line, and assuming that I was supposed to join them, I did too. As the line began to move, a man stepped in front of me and after examining the little blue booklet in my hand, asked, "Are you excited?" (Funny, he didn't ask if I was disoriented)

"Yes!" I replied and was waved forward into a tunnel of sorts and then directed down a long corridor and told to take a seat.

I sat for what seemed an interminable interval until suddenly a rumbling sound filled my ears and my seat began to move forward. Then the rumbling became a mighty roar and I was propelled forward, faster and faster...

Then the ground dropped away as the 747 lifted off the runway at San Francisco International.

'...Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth...'

Destination: Auckland, New Zealand.

"Free at last" I said aloud as I watched the ground shrink away. Free at last.
And so began the great adventure.


The flight was uneventful except for when I spilled a few drops of beer on the girl next to me. But she didn't complain; just asked for a damp rag from one of the hovering flight attendants and cleaned it up. That might have been because they had just borrowed some AA batteries from me for a walkman or whatever it was, but I think she was just being nice. Her boyfriend, who was built like a refrigerator, smiled and didn't beat me up.

The people at Air New Zealand, especially the flight attendants were great. Outstanding. The food, however, well, it wasn't worse than Subway, but...

It was mostly a boring flight (some people can sleep on airplanes. I can not) I tried to amuse myself with the defective Garmin GPS receiver for which I paid a bunch of money , holding it up to the window, but all it would read was the airspeed which matched what was on the TV screen up the aisle a couple kilometers. I could see it thanks to having a pair of small binoculars in my computer bag. A 747 is a very long aircraft.

And so after 11 hours, we landed in Auckland. I was almost half asleep when The Captain made the announcement and well, New Zealaners pronounce things different so it came out 'Oakland' and for a second I freaked out.

Getting through customs took all of five minutes, which surprised me as I had three large suitcases full of radios and computers and cables and tools. On the plane, we were given a little 'Visitor' card to fill out. Had to do with bringing certain things into New Zealand and I was asked a few simple questions, why I was visiting and where I would be staying.
That was it.
I got a van to the Airport Garden Inn, a Best Western, a nice room for NZ$68 a night and again, the people were wonderful. And understanding that I was exhausted from the long flight, and a little disoriented (OK, confused) as well. It took a while to figure out what happened to Monday; I left San Francisco at 4 PM Sunday and when I arrived in New Zealand I think it was Tuesday. I still don't remember exactly.

I stayed there for a week, taking the bus into downtown Auckland, a bustling city alive with people who appear much like Yanks in San Francisco except for one strange thing: Most of them were not yacking on cell phones. Oh, of course they do have them here, but I guess Kiwis aren't dependant on them.
 
On the left is the Sky Tower
*, tallest structure in the Southern hemisphere. People bungee jump from it. Some people. Not me. No way. Chicken? Bwakkkk cluck cluck cluck.

After wandering around for a while, exploring the Onehunga Mall and other parts of Auckland, I checked out and caught the train to Upper Hutt. A 12 hour train ride and when I got to Wellington I was exhausted. Right- I can't sleep on trains either. I was met by my friend Lance who took me to his house in Upper Hutt and after a few minutes of conversation and a couple bottles of Heineken, he put me to bed.


For a very long time, existing in my little San Francisco studio apartment, I dreamed of the day I could look out my windows and see trees and flowers and mountains. Instead of bricks and asphalt.
Where in the morning, I would be awakened to the chirping of birds instead of a chorus of jackhammers punctuated with the deafening blast of fire trucks and interspersed with the screams of pimps berating their 'ho's'.

For a few weeks, I stayed with this weird writer friend, (He will deny it. He lies) and recently moved into a nice quiet 2 bedroom flat. Mine is the top left. Sunny (when they have it here) with windows on three sides and a back yard. No grafitti, drug dealers, or hookers.
The six photos below were taken from the street I live on.


Observations
Language
Kiwi's talk funny.
English is, I guess, the official language although a great many people speak Maori (Pronounced 'Mal-ree') which apparently were some of the original inhabitants of New Zealand. English here is much like that spoken in the United Kingdom. So, at first, it may be a bit difficult to understand. True, I haven't heard anyone pronounce 'extraordinary' in two syllables as they do in the UK. But there are phrases that take a little getting used to.
   'Guh-dawn-ya-mite'
No, not a type of explosive; spoken slower it sounds like "Good on you, Mate" meaning congrats, way to go and like that. In the UK a truck is a lorry but here it is usually a truck, but in either case 'fetch' means to go get it and the hood is still the bonnet and the trunk is the boot. Or maybe I have that backwards.
   'Avin-yon' "Havin' you on' means just kiddin, pullin yer leg and like that. In general New Zealanders add a lot of the letter 'e' to things. Bed becomes 'beed' , (Lynne adds an extra e, 'beeed') the number seven is pronounced 'seevun' and like that.
And they say that I have an accent!
 

In San Francisco, my life, as well as my work area, was way too complicated. "Simplify, simplify, Thoreau kept telling me.

Sometimes, it was a bit difficult to figure out which cable went to what.

So, partly because I couldn't bring all this stuff on the airplane, I did - in fact - simplify.  Only two computers (I do miss having a Linux machine) and only four radios.

04 November 04
Now, if you never really thought about it, you might have assumed that New Zealand is a 'Tropical' place. Actually, it is sub-tropical. The bottom of the South Island is not very far from the Antarctic Circle, a rather chilly place inhabited mainly by penguins and scandanavian explorers with funny names. And I just happened to arrive in one of the coldest winters in recent history. Yes, indeed, it was cold to someone from San Francisco. But the Kiwis don't seem to notice. While I was bundled up in two sweatshirts and a white coat, looking more than a little bit like the Pillsbury Dough Boy, most of the locals were running round in T-shirts. Go figure.

It has finally, after three months, started to warm up and I no longer elicit strange looks from the natives. For along time I thought it was because of my hair - they don't have many over-age hippies in Upper Hutt, but no, people apparently just wondered why I felt cold.

In the summer, I am told, it gets very warm, and in places very hot. The farther north, the warmer. More on this when I make my exploration of this beautiful country.


Guy Fawkes Day
That's what the lady told me at the supermarket, when I asked about the fireworks.
All around me I saw skyrockets. It couldn't have been a single show like in the US; people were setting them off everywhere, in driveways and back yards.
I had seen them there, big boxes and little boxes filled with all manner of sparkling flying dazzling displays of brilliant color.
This is a celebration of Guy Fawkes day although I don't know exactly why. The lady at the market said they just use it as an excuse. Well, that was good enough for me, so I bought a large box and took it to the people next door who were already lighting up the sky, and asked if they would like to fire them up. Skyrockets, fountains of colorful sparks, Roman candles that shot brightly colored fireballs into the air...All kinds of neat stuff.
The kids loved it. So did I.


Observations
New Zealand dollars are printed on plastic, a sort of heavy duty Saran Wrap, which is a great idea as it saves a lot of trees. Not that there is any shortage here, but then maybe that is why.
The denominations are 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100.
That's right, no ones or twos. These are in coin form.
There are also coins of 50, 20, 10 and 5 cents, though you might now and then get a sixpence in change and today at the pub, I got a Florin, whatever that is.
(There is an unconfirmed rumor that pockets in New Zealand have a reinforced nylon lining because people carry around a lot of coins)


Pubs
I had heard that it is considered bad luck to pass a pub without stopping in for a pint. Even if it is ginger ale. But that applies more to Australia than New Zealand. In this little town there are four that I know of.
Will post some pictures one of these (sunny) days.




So, OK already, why did you leave the US and why New Zealand?

You probably will not see this in New Zealand

When I was a little kid, there was a TV repairman named Fred Freeman who had a shop down the street from our house. And being interested in electronics, I pestered the poor guy to death with questions. It was Fred who, for example, taught me the resistor color code, and always seemed to have a few extra parts to give me. Back then, there was no money to buy things so we built our own.
Well, one day, he gave me a military surplus BC-342-M shortwave receiver. A veritable treasure to a kid. So I strung a wire antenna to the telephone pole in the alley (and put it back every time General Telephone cut it down till they finally gave up) and soon was listening to stations all over the world. Radio Moscow, Sophia Bulgaria, the BBC, and Radio New Zealand. And from that time on, I have been fascinated with this little Pacific island nation. It isn't something I can really explain, I just knew I wanted to come here.


Observations
Food
When when you go to a new country, you expect it to be different. And while food here is much like in the US, there are differences, so some adjustments have to be made. In my case this was radical as there are neither Cheez-Its or Vernor's ginger ale.

Kiwis eat weird stuff, mate.
My first night here, Lynne made dinner for the three of us, and the entree consisted of what, apparently, is left over when someone else has made chicken Kiev. Chicken breast skeletons with little tiny slivers of meat, and mostly skin. Even though they have a nice house and don't appear to be indigent at all, I wondered if maybe I should volunteer to send out for a pizza.
Then Lynne explained it was a sort of NZ delicacy.
I called Pizza Haven. They Deliver.
Speaking of pizza, depending on who you call, you have to ask for cheese. Here in Kiwiland, it isn't assumed. Some places make it without. Cheese. Go Figure 2

French Toast
They make it the same way, but when I asked for maple syrup, Lynne looked at me like I was a crazy Yank or something. They put salt and pepper on it.

And Kiwi's are crazy about pumpkins.
When they make a roast,  it has the usual potato(e)s and carrots, but also chunks of that big orange squash. Hell, they even have pumpkin soup.

NZ has some of the best produce in the world. Even better than Australia although the Aussies might argue the fact. Yum! Unfortunately, it is expensive- but well worth it.

The variety at the local Pak-n-Save supermarket is mind boggling. The meat section is about as long as an aircraft carrier with tons of deli-ectables. More kinds of sausages than you can imagine. Makes life difficult for an apprentice vegetarian like myself.

You can find a wide variety of cheese and not only is it excellent, but you can get a one kilo (2.2 yank pounds) loaf of cheddar for about four US dollars.

The cookie section, which are called 'biscuits' here, must have a hundred different flavors, from Arnott's Tim-Tam chocolate wafers that melt in your mouth, or optionally in your hand, to ginger snaps that are not recommended for the dentally challenged.
And crackers? Like biscuits, an enormous variety.
But alas, no Cheez-Its.

Observations
Driving
Now, I am not gonna get into a discussion of which is the 'proper' side of the road. It doesn't matter who is right (I mean correct) but in NZ vehicles drive on the left. Side. This will be confusing to new visitors so it is suggested that you hire a cab and spend several days riding around, pestering the driver with questions.
Some cities have traffic circles called 'round-a-bouts' that are very confusing. Pedestrians are advised to look four ways twice before crossing. Even though the drivers are very curteous and always yield.
And as to parking, San Franciscans who own cars would be totally blown away about parking spaces in Upper Hutt. It seldom takes more than a few minutes to find one, if that long. And! There are no meters. Other New Zealand cities do have them, but not here!


07 November. Two pictures that I just received. My old San Francisco apartment. I'm the Old Fart with the hair. The guy with the grin is my friend from the 2600 meetings. The gizmo top left is a 24 dB 'grid' antenna for testing wireless networks. It is featured in my new book, which will be released next May. The red box on the right is... yep.

Observations
Slot Machines
Fascinating. Not the kind I remember from my travels back in the sixties; no lever to pull. They are electronic. As in a computer screen. But nevertheless exciting. Instead of being 'One-Arm Bandits' they might be called 'Ten-Button Bandits- you can bet so many credits,1,2,5,20 and so many lines. The more credits and lines, the faster your money disappears and so the shorter the game. I play ten lines and 3 credits, usually, to make it last longer.
So, the first time I played, at the motel in Auckland, I decided to keep track. Today, I won 22 bucks so my total loss from the beginning is exactly NS$120. Not bad considering how much fun I have had.
Every now and then, I hit a combination of things that wins me 30 free plays accompanied with a repetitious musical fanfare, and sometimes dazzling display of gold coins splashing against the screen.
Fascinating. Spock would have loved it.

O'Rileys Pub and a few of the slot machines. The one on the left
has been good to me. Sometimes...


The supermarket and a view of Main Street. In the distance is our seven story sky-scraper.

Yesterday, Monday, I got my visitors visa. I can stay for a while. Will soon start working on finding a way to stay permanently.

Wanted: Wife, platonic. Size and shape doesn't matter but must be citizen of New Zealand. 

I was asked: "You make it sound like Upper Hutt is a great place to live. But aren't there any problems or dis-advantages?
Well, yes, there are a few. As already mentioned, I had to make adjustments in my diet as there are no Cheez-Its or Vernor's ginger ale. And if there weren't enough, I have not been able to find a pastrami sandwich anywhere in the whole town.

Coming Soon:
I fly a glider, and plan a trip to explore the entire length of both islands. After I get a better camera I will take lots of pictures from Middle Earth and maybe even meet a Hobbit! (Yes, there are.)

Yes, after three months, I am still excited. And yes, sometimes I still wake up in the morning and think: "Wow! I really am here". After almost 40 years, I am in New Zealand.


10 December.
Sometimes I am a little slow. Above, I mentioned the traffic circles, 'round-abouts'. It just dawned on me- they eliminate the need for traffic lights.

Thoughts, Hopes, Fears: 
My friend Lance (the weird writer) and I were having a few pints at O'Riley's and he said, "Shannon, I think it took a lot of courage to come here as you did."
As I did. A few thousand bucks in the bank and a small monthly income
Courage? Perhaps. But it is more a matter of not being able to take the situation I was in for much longer. Sometimes in our lives, change is necessary even if it means laying it all on the line. Even if it means one beautiful year in New Zealand instead of many more years of secure misery. A year of life, of adventure, of excitement rather than the slow death I was experiencing in San Francisco.

Maybe I can survive as a writer. Maybe not. I did what I had to do.
To be continued...

17 February
A Trip to Wellington, a Missed Connection, Cricket 101 and a Happy Reunion

There is, according to a web site a group of American ex-pats that get together at JJ Murphy's Irish what else Pub, once a month. So, my friend Lance drove me up there. We got there early and I wandered around looking to see if I could find them. I didn't see anyone who looked the part, and while New Zealanders are a friendly easy going lot, somehow it didn't seem like a good idea to go round to tables full of half drunk yelling sports fans and ask if they were Yanks. So, I asked the bartender who said he knew nothing about it but that I might try upstairs which I did. Nope. Not a bloomin Yank accent (Did I realy say that?!) to be heard.

While I was waiting for the people (who never showed up) I was sitting at a table with a giant TV screen so I decided to watch for a while rather than move to the only other empty table which had a slightly smaller TV beside it. (Kiwis are really big on television).

What was on was a Cricket game.

Not having much interest in spectator sports, and of course having kicked TV many years ago, I had never seen this game. But I decided to watch. One day, if I apply for citizenship, there are sure to be questions about Cricket and Rugby along with the different branches of government and other civic matters.

OK, there is this large stadium, quite a bit bigger than the TV screen, which is covered with what looked like Astro-Turf. It has a sort of oval shaped layout in the center with what appears to be part of a Croquet set. The field is empty of people.

After 15 minutes or so, these two guys walk on to the field, dressed in funny looking uniforms with those kind of hats that private investigators wore back in the forties. Jack Webb had one similar to it. They grin a lot and take their time, and when they get near the Croquet set, some other people wander along.

Most of them take up positions around the edge of the field except three who will be the pitcher, catcher and batter, like in Yank baseball. They stand around and yack for a while, then take their positions at the ends of the Croquet field.

The "pitcher" is at one end and the "catcher" at the other and here it gets confusing. The third guy who is the batter, is wearing the catcher's mask and white lipstick, steps up holding what looks like a cutting board borrowed from someone's kitchen but with a handle on it. Resembled a small version of the paddle that Mrs. Thomas was always threatening us with in the third grade.

Now, the pitcher tries to throw the ball to the catcher. At first, I thought it was because of what one of the two guys in the funny hats said- the pitcher appeared to get angry. He ran toward the batter like he was gonna attack, then hesitated and threw the ball onto the ground. So anyway, the ball bounces and the batter tries to hit it anyway, which he does. It goes backwards like a Yank foul ball and the catcher (You wouldn't believe how fast that guy moves!) catches it. This is repeated, and I wonder; either the pitcher is a try-out (was this a practice game for rookies?) or is too weak as he throws it on the ground again. And again the batter hits a foul ball which the catcher catches.

This is repeated a third time, then they get a new batter. Also wearing white lipstick. But this time, he hits the ball forward. Someone catches it and then all the other people on the field start running around in some unorganized manner like they were playing tag without knowing who was "it".

A new batter comes on and hits the ball into the stands where the fans fight over it. Then one of the guys with the hats walks over and does a little dance while waving his arms like he was making hieroglyphic symbols at which time the fan that has the ball tosses it to him.

The waitress brought my food and, as apparently I (still) looked confused, she explained that bouncing the ball off the ground is how they play the game and I was gently admonished not to be saying out loud that I thought it was a weird game and at that point I lost interest and starting eating.

 

I was also hoping to meet up with an old friend from my high school days, Wes and his wife Bev. He was in Wellington but I wasn't here when he called and he wasn't checking Email when I told him about Murphys. Very disappointed. But the next day he called saying that they would be in Upper Hutt about 2 PM.
About 4 PM he called. Lost. He had flagged down a local who asked me where it was we were to meet and then showed him how to drive there. (He was like three blocks away at the time.) So, he managed to find the Logan Mall Food court in this thriving metropolis of 30,000 Kiwis and a handful of Yanks.
It is Human nature to remember the good old days, even when they weren't so good, but in this case we had nothing but good memories. Wes was an actor at an open air theatre back in the midwest (Quite a ways Off Broadway) and also back a few decades. They put on shows like Destry Rides Again, Guys and Dolls (The immortal Damon Runyan) and Paint Your Wagon.
I wasn't an actor but I worked back-stage moving scenery around. And after the last performance of a show we had what were called Strike Parties. People singing and dancing and getting shit-faced (to the max!) before the term was even coined.

Yeah, the Good Old Days. We used to go on ham radio Field Day and to the coffee houses where there was live folk music. Songs by The Immortal Kingston Trio, Chad Mitchell Trio, Josh White and (what Wes said he did to his guitar) Peter Paul and Mary and some Bawdy Songs and Sea Chanties (Barnacle Bill eg).

We had a couple hours of wonderful conversation and reminiscing and to my relief, he didn't mention (had forgotten?) the swim trunks I borrowed and didn't return some 35 years ago.

Alas, they had to get going on their exploration of this beautiful country, so a hug and a hope that Wes and Bev will return to Upper Hutt and buy the beer he promised me so we can rap on for many hours.

It was wonderful to see you again, my old friends.

Investors Wanted
I truly believe that if I had the funds to set up a street vending cart, like they have for Polish sausages on Market St. but selling real Kosher steamed brisket of pastrami sandwiches, I could make a ton of money. Free pickles and mustard even. (And ice-cold cans of Vernor's ginger ale.) Please advise if seriously interested.

Look what some wonderful person sent me!

Sometimes, life has to change, one has to go forth into the unknown following a dream.

Stuff that works, stuff that holds up
The kind of stuff you don't hang on the wall
Stuff that's real, stuff you feel
The kind of stuff you reach for when you fall
Guy Clark
Dublin Blues

I just didn't want it anymore. College diploma, military honorable discharge, commendation letters from Association for Retarded Citizens, Artquake, NeighborFair and others for volunteer work, employee of the month awards, framed copies of my first published magazine articles, pictures of this and that including the motor home I used to own, just didn't care about it so it all went through the shredder.

What counts is the future, not The kind of stuff you don't hang on the wall

22 June. Next week, the ferry to the South Island and the train to Christ Church to meet a computer geek friend, take pictures, and look for a Hobbit.

17 July. Alas, sometimes things don't work out. But I did have some good times. And now, in three days, I get on another 747 and fly back to the US. I will not be confused, and I most definetly will not be excited. What I will be is sad. I will miss Upper Hutt and the people here. I will miss New Zealand. And if there is any possible way, I will be back.

No more pictures, and no more words; there is nothing left to say.
And so ends the Great Adventure.

M L Shannon.